Wednesday, December 11, 2013

No. 176 – Chloe Dancer / Crown of Thorns

Performer: Mother Love Bone
Songwriters: Jeff Ament, Bruce Fairweather, Greg Gilmore, Stone Gossard, Andy Wood
Original Release: Shine EP
Year: 1989
Definitive Version: None.

When we last left our intrepid explorers in the summer of 1993, they just had their minds blown by Crazy Horse. It was so awesome, in the original sense of the word, that seeing Mt. Rushmore afterward was like seeing, say, Singles, which introduced me to this two-part epic song, after Dances With Wolves. They’re art of the same genre, but there’s no comparison.

Speaking of Dances With Wolves, the next thing Scott and I did on what would be the busiest day of our cross-country trek was stop at a particular tourist trap in the Black Hills. This one I also knew about ahead of time.

It was scenery from my all-time favorite movie (at the time). A few of the buildings that were used for Fort Hayes, the prairie border town where Kevin Costner’s character gets sent off into the wild of South Dakota, had been moved to this location just outside Rapid City. We stopped for the requisite pictures. It wasn’t nearly as cool as I hoped it would be. Oh well, they can’t all be Crazy Horse.

Speaking of tourist traps, we next stopped at the Wall Drug Store as we continued our trek East. Do you know about Wall Drug? If it isn’t the world’s largest drugstore, it has to be the world’s most famous drugstore. (I noted with some contempt afterward that it was the world’s largest drugstore that didn’t sell baseball cards.)

But saying Wall Drug is known for its size is like saying Singles is known for its comedic storyline. In other words you’ve missed the point. Just as the point of Singles was the music, the point of Wall Drug is the cheese and not the kind that comes in huge wheels.

Wall Drug is gloriously cheesy. The best part is its courtyard menagerie of statuary, including the legendary jackalope of the Badlands. The photographic chicanery began after I climbed up to ride the fabled beast. Then Scott and I had to pose with every other form of statuary out there, including the replica of Mt. Rushmore, a gorilla and a saloon babe on a bench.

My favorite statuary isn’t even at Wall Drug but on the outskirts of Wall, S.D. I mean, how many times in your life do you get to see an 80-foot dinosaur?

Wall Drug was the comedic relief in what was otherwise a fairly serious day. After Wall, we headed to our next destination nearby—The Badlands.

Badlands National Park was my second-favorite stop of the trip, behind only Crazy Horse. It was like nothing I’d ever seen before. I mean, Glacier National Park was cool, but I’d been to the Rockies and the Tetons before. Ultimately, you were seeing snow-covered mountains. Aside from the statuary, the Black Hills were not unlike part of the Smokies. They’re different, but similar enough to be recognizable.

But I’d never seen anything like the Badlands in South Dakota. How do you describe it? I guess like frozen desert. The swales of rock that seemed to flow through the open prairie resembled sand dunes that had turned to stone, with unnatural rises and falls. Scott took one of my favorite pictures while there. It was of me in the car, reading a Bill James book, seemingly oblivious to the otherworldly countryside that commands the view through the car’s windows.

Scott and I drove through the park and made dozens of stops to look and take pictures. It seemed like every vista provided some new impossible-to-achieve formation of rock. I’d provide another Singles analogy, but two is one too many for a single post. Let’s just say it definitely is worth checking out.

The Badlands in some ways marked the end of our vacation but certainly not the end of our adventures. We didn’t have any more planned destinations, but we still had one more day to go before we’d arrive in Chicago. Our time of meandering was over. We had to put some serious miles on the car before days’ end, which would be in Madison, near the Minnesota border.

It had been quite a day in South Dakota.

No comments:

Post a Comment